NGKG Meeting--November 18, 2008

Member’s Knitting Tips

This tip comes from Handknitting with Meg Swansen (Pittsville WI: Schoolhouse Press 1995), p.54.  If you are making gloves and want to avoid tedious knitting of tiny tubes on double-pointed needles, treat each finger as if it were I-cord.  Because you won't be able to pull it tight, leave just one stitch's worth of ladder across the back. Work the finger as if it were i-cord, creating that loose ladder behind.  Also, you should be knitting on one fewer stitch than your pattern calls for.  When you are near completion, take a crochet hook and hook up that ladder as if it were a dropped stitch.  So much less fussy!
~Jolie Elder

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Tip 1- to keep stockinette stitch edges from curling begin each row with P1.

Tip 2 - to soften a finished project made with Red Heart yarn first fill kitchen sink with water and 1 cap of liquid fabric softener. Allow project to soak for several hours then rinse well and machine dry.

~Cindy Myers

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Gusset Gap Relief: Here is one of the most helpful hints I ever got for knitting socks. I would always have a gap at the top of the gusset and it bothered me. On page 25 of Sensational Knitted Socks by Charlene Schurch, she recommends picking up two extra stitches at the top of the gusset and decreasing them in the first round. It works like a charm for me. No more gusset gaps.

~Lois Mitchell

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Tracking Rows: My current favorite knitting tip is to place different colored perle cotton markers every 15 stitches or so along a long row of color-pattern knitting, especially if it's an irregular or non- repeating design, then draw lines in corresponding colors at the same intervals on the chart I'm following as I knit. Really helps to cut down on un-knitting to correct mistakes!

~Betty Salpekar

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Jackie Erickson-Schweitzer has a neat tip in her newsletter for an easy circular center start:

I suggest you practice with heavier weight yarn than you might typically think of using for knitting lace.

• To begin: Make a slip knot and put it on one of your double point needles as the first cast-on stitch. Then cast on 5 more stitches to the same needle. (i.e. you now have a total of 6 stitches on the needle) I know you are going to ask --: No, it doesn't really matter what type of cast on. I usually use long tail cast on for this, but you could alternatively use your favorite knitted-on cast on.
• Foundation row: Using a 2nd double point needle, turn and purl across the 6 stitches.
• Increase row: Still using only two double point needles, turn and work as follows -- [yarn over, knit 1] 6 times. You now have a total of 12 stitches on one of your double point needles. Note: this row replaces the first increase round on typical 6-section doily patterns.
• Lasso the cast on stitches: Beginning with the cast-on stitch the furthest from the cast-on yarn tail, pull tail through lower loop of each cast-on stitch using either a threaded tapestry needle or crochet hook.
• Distribute stitches on three of your double point needles. (i.e. 4 stitches on each needle) Arrange double point needles for circular knitting. Mark beginning of round.
• Plain round: With your 4th double point needle, knit the 12 stitches.
• Cinch 'em up: Pull cast-on tail to close circle snugly. Do not cut the yarn end yet as it will be easier to see if there is any need to tidy up the center after the knitting of the item has been completed. Now you are ready to proceed with your next increase round of the typical doily pattern.

Note: For doily patterns with other than 6 sections, just adjust for the correspondingly different stitch counts.

~Cheryl Hood

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Bread Closures I: My tip is very simple: I use the tabs from bread bags to use as yarn bobbins while knitting.
~Nancy

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Bread Closures II: Take the little plastic discs used to seal up a bread bag or bag of potatoes and wrap left over tail yarn when you cast on.  It doesn't get in the way then when you are knitting and there is enough left to weave in at the end of the project.  I have picked up the wrong yarn and knitted merrily along enough times to appreciate this one.  I keep one in my knitting bag.

~Sharron Long

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Organizing: Xerox a one page paper of knitting and crocheting terms (explanations of all those abbreviated directions in patterns), and fold that up and put it in a snack size zip lock bag with a crochet hook, some double point needles, a small pair of scissors, a tape measure, some safety pins, and some large sewing needles, and keep it always in my knitting bag.

~Joan Amideo

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Circular Knitting Tip: If you are knitting something in the round cast on one more stitch than is called for.  When you begin the first row slip the first stitch as to knit, and then follow the pattern directions until you come to the last stitch on your needle.  Move the last stitch next to the first stitch that you slipped and then either knit or purl those two stitches together according to your pattern directions.  This makes a much better join than if you just try to pull the yarn up snuggly. 

I read something similar to this somewhere on the internet several years ago, but I have no idea where so I cannot give you a proper reference, besides they had you knit the first stitch, but that creates a bump.  If you slip the first stitch it eliminates the bump at the join.

~Jeannie Frey

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One that sticks in my head is when working with two circular needles I treat them as an old married couple they sit side by side but they don't touch.  It keeps me from knitting with the wrong needle. 

~Gerri Patterson

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I-Cord Bind Off: This will put a tiny tube of stocking stitch along a selvedge

This is my favorite bind off for and edge that will not be involved in seaming, such as a button band or edge of a shawl.  It looks especially nice on garter stitch.

You can use a two, three or four stitch I-cord.  Directions here are for a two stitch.  Three and four stitches are in parentheses. Please note that you will not be turning your work.  It will be facing you at all times.

On the left needle you will have raw stitches, Cast on (using knitted cast on or cable cast on 2 (3, 4) stitches.   You have the option of casting on in a different yarn for a contrasting border.

 *Knit 1 (2, 3).   Then SSK or K2tog through back loops (being the last cord stitch and one of the raw stitches.)

Replace the 2 (3, 4) stitches to the left needed and repeat from *.

There are other variations of I-cord:  built in, casting on, applied, buttonholes and freeform...   Elizabeth Zimmermann was the queen of I-cord and you can learn more about it uses in SWEATERS FROM CAMP and the DVD KNITTNG GLOSSARY.  Both available from Schoolhouse Press

You can also do a search of these variations online.

~Mary Holton

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Tip #1 – I always keep a couple of double pointed needles and a copy of the kitchener stitch instructions in my knitting bag for handy reference.

Tip #2 – when knitting patterns in the round; I use the same color marker all around, to break up the stitch pattern count. The last marker, I use a different color as a reminder to me I am at the end of the row.

~Jenny Lee

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Blocking: For blocking a shawl or other garment, a weed eater cable (smooth nylon line for running in outdoor weed eaters) run through the outside edge of a garment and then pinned provides a straight edge w/o using as many pins!

~From a user message posted on Ravelry.

Lace Pattern Knitting Tips:

When you have a multiple row lace pattern and you keep getting lost in it

a)      Write the instructions for each row on a separate 3x5 index card.

b)      Punch a hole in the upper left corner

c)      Put the deck in order and tie a string through all of them

d)     Start knitting. As you end each row, flip to the next card. If you have to stop in mid-row, always end at the end of a repeat.

When you store your deck, leave it open to the current card—it will either be at the beginning of a row or the beginning of a repeat but you will always know where you are.

Also to help you “align” where you are, after every few repeats in a row, put a stitch marker. Then if you get to a stitch marker, but you are not at the end of your pattern repeat, you know the pattern has gotten off and you can more easily determine what went wrong—you also end up undoing less work.

~Lori Flansburg

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Knitter Beware for Pattern Corrections: Always check web sites for corrections before beginning a pattern whether it is a free pattern or a purchased pattern. If there are a lot of patterns offered in a web site, magazine, book, or even for single patterns, but there are no corrections listed anywhere—tread carefully and read the pattern through before beginning. Most patterns list an email address, phone number, or web site address, so if you can’t find any corrections on the web, contact the author with questions.

The absolute worse customer service I’ve seen in a knitting magazine was to contact them with any questions or issues and they would get back to you in about 4 weeks. You have got to be kidding me! I’ll bet they don’t offer that same “I’ll get back to you in 4 weeks” service to their advertisers, which only leads to the assumption that they don’t cater to customers or consumers—but to advertisers. I just find that extremely odd, and that was the same magazine that didn’t offer pattern corrections for their customers either. Go figure!

Zip Lock Bags: I really don’t know how I existed before zip lock bags came into being. I use them for everything and they are a main staple in my knitting bags. They hold patterns, needles I’ll use for a project, my pattern notes, misc. notes & note cards, and stuff I like to keep handy for projects I’m working on. The smaller ones hold my needle point protectors, stitch markets, waste yarn….you name it. I like them because they don’t take up extra space in my bag, they’re light, stay closed, are inexpensive, and I can see what’s in each one.

Storing small amounts of leftover yarn: One trick for storing extra yarn is the toilet paper, paper towel, or aluminum foil rolls—you’ll want them to be empty. These are especially good for delicate and specialty yarns. You can cut the longer ones into several rolls. And you can cut quite a few small rolls out of long wrapping paper rolls. Just wrap the yarn loosely around it, tape the yarn end to the roll, then tape the yarn label inside the roll. I used to throw the smaller amounts away, but realized I should use them for various things like button covers, to sew faces on animals, make a little flower pin, add a little border on a hat or gloves, etc.

Storing Yarn: I like to be organized and easily find yarn in my stash. I separate yarns, especially wools, so they don’t come in contact with other yarns. I use short boxes I can slide under the bed, plastic boxes with lids, and gift bags. I use the gift bags for particular projects to hold the yarn, pattern, and any other accessories such as buttons, accessory patterns, etc., for projects I intend to make…well, one of these days, or for gifts.  Other yarns I separate—one box for cotton, one for wools, one for embroidery weight yarns, and shoeboxes for delicate yarns. Any yarn that “sheds” or is likely to, goes in its own box.  I don’t store dark yarns with light colors, such as reds with whites—one never knows.

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Finished Project Info Bags: Put together project info for future use. Save about 3-4 yards of yarn. One way is to put them in sandwich bags, as they’re inexpensive and easy to store, and write the project description on the bag with a permanent marker. Small zip-lock bags work best. You can also include a yarn band so you have the item’s care instructions. Include anything you wish to remember regarding a project—sometimes I put notes in regarding sizing and construction changes, or stitch patterns I substituted and where to find it, or what book the pattern is in and the page number, or a photo. If you photocopied the pattern, include it also.  You might decide to make another one, so you can just pull out your project bag for the pertinent information. You can also note the completion date on the yarn band. Punch a hole in each bag and tie them together for easy storage. It would also be a nice touch to send several yards of yarn in a little zip lock bag or small envelope along with a gift, and to let the recipient know the fiber content of the yarn and how to care for their item.

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The Prepared Knitter Travels: When I travel, I take at least 2 project bags containing works in progress and my knitting bag. I also usually select a few knitting patterns for projects I want to make in the future, so I’m prepared if I visit any knitting shops and find yarn I can’t resist for those projects (you might want to leave room in a suitcase for the extra goodies you’ll bring back.)

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“Mindless” versus “Complex”: I always have 2 projects in the works. One is a complex pattern where I have to pay close attention. The other one I call “mindless knitting” which is a simple pattern I can work on anywhere there will be distractions so I won’t have to worry about getting home and having to rip out mistakes because I couldn’t pay close attention to the instructions.  Then when I get home, I can work on the more complex project.

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Knitting Identical Sleeves:  I work both sleeves at the same time so they will be exactly alike. One problem…if you finish one, then put the work aside, you can’t tell which sleeve you worked on last and which one to start on next. Here’s a tip if you get interrupted often (or have senior moments as I do on occasion): I do 2 things—actually 3. I write a cheat sheet listing row numbers. I grab my row counter (as a backup). Use 2 removable stitch markets (or make 2 from scrap yarn) in different colors and attach one to the bottom of each sleeve. Then I go to my row number cheat sheet and add 2 columns to each row—1 for green and 1 for a red marker. I include any directions, i.e., increases & decreases for each row, length notes, etc. Then I work from my cheat sheet. Now I can mark off each sleeve as I complete it and can double check my markers to make sure I begin again with the correct sleeve.  This works for me, but others may have a better method. If so, please share…

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Organizing Magazines:  Large 3-ring binders are great for storing magazines. I purchase the 3-ring magazine holder plastic thingies for mine. Not sure what you call the little gadgets, but they are heavy plastic with holes for a 3-ring binder and have a long slit down the middle to hold magazines.  It might be embarrassing to stroll into your local office supply store and ask where you might find those 3-ring binder plastic magazine holder thingies, but looking on the bright side, it’ll give the salesperson something to laugh about later over dinner with their friends or family. But I’ll bet you wouldn’t be the first person to ask such a question. And, no, I know what you’re thinking, I didn’t ask. I simply perused the store until I found them, but I’m sure your time is valuable, so don’t hesitate to ask. If they giggle behind their hand, fine—just consider that you brightened their day. On the other hand, if they roll in the floor laughing, you might want to give them a lecture on manners befitting a professional salesperson and the definition of good customer service.

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Double Points & Crochet Hook Holders: Some of you may find this comical, but it works for me. I use bottled water bottles to hold my dpn’s, and the smaller size Gatorade bottles for crochet hooks. I personally don’t like Gatorade, so I make my son drink it. He loves it. I guess you could consider that another knitting tip—not sure. Anyway, sorry, had a senior moment and got off topic. These bottles work great—you needles and hooks are safe, and they’re cheap. I’m too cheap to buy the nice holders, and Santa apparently still hasn’t received my Christmas list from 1985. If anyone cares to write Santa and intervene on my behalf, please feel free. By the way, you’ll want to drink the water and Gatorade first (not both at the same time please; we weren’t raised in a barn) and you’ll want to wash the bottles—it just works better that way and your needles and hooks will thank you.

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Project Photos: Over the years, people have asked if I take photos of the things I make; sometimes and sometimes not. But, it is nice to have photos of your work. If you make a gift for someone, take a good photo (outside is always best). You may receive a call one day to make another sweater or whatever for someone who left theirs on a train, or someone saw their item and wants to know if you will make them one just like it. I find that a small photo album that holds two 4x6 photos per sheet works best and is much handier than a large book. If you get double prints, you can also include a photo with that particular project’s information and the yarn used (if you kept it). Or simply store your photo in its finished project baggie.

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End-of-Row Increases, Decreases, or Whatever: Ahhh, those senior moments…they come out of nowhere, and they sneak up on you without even a whisper or warning. I’m sure all of you are immune, but I encounter this affliction on occasion.  Anyway, you’re clicking along nicely on a 10,000 stitch row (just kidding), on a long row in which you must decrease, increase, or whatever at the end of the row, and meanwhile you’re watching a romantic movie and reaching for tissues occasionally, when you suddenly discover you’ve knitted 10 rows without working those decreases at the end of a row—10 rows ago! My simple, senior moment solution is to slip on a bright colored removable stitch marker at the end of the row when I first begin that row. Then, when I get to the marker, I know I have to do something—either work a particular stitch, or drop my knitting, grab another tissue & sniffle through the romantic scene unfolding on the screen. Or---as happens to me, let the dogs out for a potty break, or to annoy the dogs who live next door (who aren’t any bigger than a country biscuit, but act like they own the neighborhood).

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Most Useful Knitting Habit for Circular Needle Knitting: Loop a small piece of scrap yarn through a row counter that fits on straight needles, then pin that to my work with a “safety pin” stitch marker. I used to use a scrap piece of paper to count rows and was always losing it or the pen to mark it with. With a row counter pinned on my work, I can always find it and it isn’t at the beginning of one row and then the end of the next like the row counters that fit on the needles are. It also doubles as a right side marker when the pattern calls for marking that.

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Suitcase on Wheels:  I was strolling through a pet shop one day and happened upon a pet suitcase on wheels with a retractable handle. I really wanted that suitcase, though I don’t need one as we don’t travel often and I use a large diaper bag as a doggie suitcase. Anyway, the one thing I picked up on was that it had a lot of pockets and was the perfect size for a traveling knitter—not too big, not too small. Also, the wheels were retractable so it would sit flat, yet the bag didn’t touch the floor, so it would stay nice and clean. I couldn’t tell you where I saw it, I don’t remember. But I thought I would pass this along in case anyone is interested. And, what do I know, there might just be such a knitting bag out there and I haven’t seen it, and some of you might not have seen one either…so here you go.

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Interchangeable Needles:  Save time & money. These needles changed my life…my knitting life, I mean. They didn’t make me a lottery winner, but that’s another story…I use Denise (knitdenise.com). I strongly suggest checking out different brands to see what would work best for you, asking around, and reading reviews online. Also see knitpicks.com. Also Addi needles now come in interchangebles, (I believe they are 3 times the cost of the Denise brand). Compare the range and number of needle sizes, range of lengths of cords, how needle tips are connected to the cords, the warranty (“life time” doesn’t mean much if they go out of business), do they come in a case, what items can be purchased separately, will the needle and cord join snag your yarn, are they needle points too long, etc.

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Beautiful, Elegant, Useful, & Inexpensive Quick Gifts:  A beautiful, quick gift for knitters, readers, or really for anyone is a bookmark. You can get as fancy as you like, as wide or narrow as you want, but I suggest only fine weight yarns. There are many stitch patterns available and beautiful fine yarns. You will want the yarn to be long-lasting and not too delicate…but your choice. Just find a beautiful stitch pattern you like, add borders if you want and knit away. I add tassels—some short, some long. I have also added a crochet chain to the end and purchased little charms to attach—these are really cute and there are many types of charms available in craft stores for kids or adults (no charms for smaller children though). I’ve made some as wide as 5” for larger books and as narrow as 1”. I’ve made long ones and short ones; complicated ones and simple ones, and I’ve added initials and names on some (this is cute for kids). This is a beautiful gift and one that people will use over and over. They make a nice gift for teachers. One year I made several (not teachers—bookmarks) and attached them to the outside of my Christmas gifts. Oh, and don’t forget to make one for yourself!

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 Bottled Water: It’s not what it sounds like. I don’t drink bottled water, I just use their bottles. I keep an empty bottle in my bag at the ready, and when I’m ready to walk out the door, I fill the bottle with tap water, slip it in my nice knitted bottled water carrier, plop it in my knitting bag, and off I go. It has a handle so I can carry it on my arm and not in my knitting bag, which is heavy enough. When I get home, I wash it, sit it on the counter to dry, then plop it back in my knitting bag ready for my next knitterly excursion. There’s a reason I keep the empty bottle in my bag—I don’t have to worry about having one of those senior moments and walking out the door without my water bottle. But, I’m totally covered, you see, because if I leave and forget to fill it with water, not to worry, there is always tap water available somewhere. Well, there is unless I plan on knitting in the forest, and I’m not exactly the “knitting in the forest” type. Although, the way our economy is going presently, I might get up one day and discover the water company doesn’t have the funds to pipe water to my home, so then I guess I’d be stuck with drinking bottled water from…I don’t know, where ever they get their bottled water.

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PUT A ZIP IN YOUR KNITTING!

INSTALLING ZIPPERS WITH A BIAS TAPE FACING

BY JANET JOHNSON STEPHENS

     Installing a zipper in a knitted garment can be very intimidating!  I think that is why many people avoid them.  I hope I can convince you that it is doable and that you can have good results.

     I have seen zippers sewn into knitted garments by using a sewing machine but I have never seen one using that method that really looked neat.  It is difficult to keep the machine stitching in the same line of knit stitches.  Machine stitching looks out of place on hand-knit garments-it makes them look “store bought!”  The best-looking zipper installations have no sewing stitches showing on the right side of the garment.

     I have developed a method that makes the zipper lay flat and look almost invisible from the right side when it is closed.  I was a serious sewer before I became a serious knitter and because of that, I incorporate many sewing techniques into my knitting.  The secret to this method is to hand-sew bands of wide bias tape on the wrong side of the garment opening.  This tape is almost one inch wide excluding the seam allowances, and is available in many colors.

     The biggest problem you will probably have is finding a zipper in the needed length for the opening or finding the appropriate color-especially separating zippers for jackets.  Sometimes it is easier to purchase the zipper before you knit the garment and make the garment fit the zipper!  For certain openings, non-separating zippers can be used and they can be cut to the length you need.  The directions for cutting are usually on the package.  You can overcast a nylon zipper with thread where you want it to end and cut it one-half inch below the sewing, leaving a short stub.

     Now, here is the method I use:

1.      Work one row of single crochet on each placket edge, counting stitches to make sure each side is identical.

2.      Baste placket edges together by over-casting so that they meet but do not overlap.

3.      Block garment.  Do not remove bastings.

4.      Whip-stitch wide bias tape to each edge of the placket with the edge of the tape placed along the base of the crochet stitches on the wrong side of the garment.  Sew across the top, bottom and both sides.  Measure the first piece of tape and check it against the second piece so they will be the same length.  Sew with a double strand of sewing thread throughout.

5.      Lay the zipper right side down on the bias tape facing with   the zipper teeth even with the joined edges of the garment.  Overcast the zipper around the sides and bottom to the bias tape.  Remove the bastings.

6.      Turn the front edge of the garment back and whip-stitch the bias tape to the right side of the zipper tape.

With a little practice, this method should take the fear out of putting in a zipper and give you good results.

Janet Johnson Stephens

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Ready…Set…Prepare to Knit:  Have you heard the phrase “always prepare your materials?” I always try to do this. It just makes knitting easier and I’m not fumbling for different things I need. I always knit in the same place at home, so my current project and knitting bag are at the ready, or I can grab them at a moment’s notice. Sometimes I sit out on the patio and knit, but I can just grab my project bag and materials box and I’m ready to go. Of course, one needs different supplies for different projects, but here is my basic preparedness list (the ones with an asterisk (*) are optional of course):

This looks like a long list, but it’s really just basic supplies you probably already have together in one place. Try it and see if it works for you. I find it’s a great help and a time saver because everything I need is at my fingertips. If I’m working on 2 projects at once, I only put materials in my plastic container that can be used for either project, such as gauge ruler, tape measure, scissors, removable markers, etc. The other items will go in a zip lock bag & into the appropriate project bag.